Format: How-to / Step-by-step | Topic: Box braids on short hair
Box braids are often assumed to require significant natural hair length to install, but with the right technique and the right extension hair, they can be done on natural hair as short as two to three inches. The process differs slightly from standard box braid installation on longer hair, and understanding these differences is the key to a successful installation on short natural hair.
Minimum Length Requirements
A minimum of approximately two inches of natural hair is needed for box braids to grip the extension hair securely enough to stay in place. Less than this makes it very difficult to secure the extension hair at the root, and the braids will unravel quickly. If the hair is currently under two inches, crochet braids on a cornrow base are a more appropriate option that does not require the natural hair to grip extension strands individually.
What You Will Need
Small-to-medium sections of kanekalon braiding hair — smaller sections than you would use for longer hair, as the short natural hair cannot accommodate very large attachment points. A rat tail comb, hair clips, edge control, a spray bottle with water, and a light oil for the natural hair before installation.
Step 1 — Stretch the Natural Hair
Short natural hair is much easier to work with when stretched. Apply a small amount of a light gel or edge control to the hair and blow dry on a low heat setting with a tension method to stretch the curl pattern as much as possible. Stretched short natural hair is easier to divide into clean sections, easier to gather at the root, and provides a cleaner attachment point for the extension hair.
Step 2 — Create Very Small, Clean Sections
Section the hair into very small, neat parts — smaller than standard box braid sections. Short natural hair that is sectioned into large parts does not provide enough density at each attachment point for the braid to hold securely. Small sections distribute the attachment weight more efficiently and produce a more secure installation.
Step 3 — Modified Attachment Technique
For short natural hair, use less extension hair per section than you would for longer natural hair. Take a thin piece of braiding hair and fold it in half. Loop it around the short natural hair section very close to the scalp, and then immediately begin braiding very tightly at the root to anchor the extension hair before the braid progresses downward. The first few braiding stitches at the root must be tight enough to hold the attachment in place — more so than on longer natural hair where the weight of the braid itself contributes to the hold.
Step 4 — Braid Downward
Once the extension hair is securely anchored at the root, braid downward as in a standard box braid, incorporating the extension hair throughout. Keep the tension at the root secure while allowing the mid-length and ends to be braided at a comfortable tension. Seal the ends with hot water or a small elastic.
Post-Installation Care
Box braids on short natural hair may have slightly less longevity than those on longer hair because the shorter attachment point is under more relative stress. Moisturize the scalp every two to three days, protect at night with a satin bonnet, and plan for a four to six week maximum wear time rather than eight weeks.